Scotland

The train pulled into the Waverly Station in the Scottish Capital of Edinburgh by noon. We had taken the Scot Rail service from Kings Cross in London at 8 am. Five hours of the most picturesque landscape of hills, rivers, meadows, stud farms, villages and towns the train sped through. We halted at Dunham, Newcastle, Berwick upon Tweed and other small towns. Through most of the ride I looked out of the huge, wide windows drinking in the beauty in addition to the huge cups of tea that we picked up from the refreshment cart, when it passed. At all times I had my camera ready, clicking away, except that time which I spent walking through the train to go pick up huge bacon, tuna and salad baguettes and café latte from the well stocked Café cabin .

Our first real encounter with the exuberant, friendly and warm Scot’s was the Taxi driver who drove us to the Haymarket Station. Having made reservations on the internet at a hotel opposite to the station named after it. The rooms were spacious and very well furnished. A stroll nearby after check-in led us to an Indian Restaurant – The Prince of India. It was actually Bangladeshi as are most Indian restaurants in the UK. Over Jagjit and Chitra Singh Ghazals we lunched on a set course menu which as we learnt, was popular. Those unfamiliar with the cuisine did not have difficulty ordering. The food was piping hot and warmed us. In spite of it being summer, it was cold.   

After lunch, a little rest and change of clothes at the hotel we went over to the nearest bus stop. Studying the route map on the bus stand we took a bus ride to Princess Street. Taking a walk through we visited the souvenir shops lining the street and the Edinburgh woolen mills which we soon learnt had an outlet at every major tourist spot. We mentally noted what we would buy before we left. It was only our first day and too early to start shopping. Much later in the evening we started walking down to High Street. It is popular for the number of pubs lining it on both sides. A sudden shower en route, added to mother being unable to walk any further, we took a Taxi. After a quick look around the near deserted street due to the rain and it being nearly 10pm we settled comfortably at the outlet of a Café chain Garfunkel’s.  Dinner for me was a Spanish red wine and Pork chops with salad.

After breakfast at the hotel the next morning we took a bus through Princess Street to Waverley Bridge. Beside the Waverley Station we collected our Hop on Hop off bus passes. On the corner opposite to the station we waited for the bus in front of a beautifully laid park. A Scott dressed in national costume of a tartan kilt and shirt with a tie played a very merry tune on the bagpipe. While we watched another came and took over from him. They played in shifts and reminded you that you were in Scotland. As the bus arrived we headed to the open top deck. The view from up there was breathtaking. In the distant atop the hills we could see the magnificent Castle of Edinburgh which one can see from anywhere on Princess Street and Waverley.

We looked around at numerous other buildings atop sprawling hills. The park below was lined with pretty flowers in full bloom amongst the lush green grass. It was visible amidst the tall trees as we plugged on our ear phones to the sound of a live audio guide in a cheerful and heavy Scott accent. The combination of the cozy warmth of the sun, with the chilly wind blowing in the already cold weather, was heavenly even as I buttoned my jacket and wrapped a woolen scarf well about my neck. We were amused by the voice modulation, acting skills and humor of our guide. He told us that King Macbeth, whose castle is there, was a good king unlike the Shakespearean Character. Witches were burnt alive since ages in Edinburgh. Dead bodies often were robbed from their coffin and therefore guarded for at least two weeks around 24 hours

Reaching the Edinburgh castle we got off. On second thoughts however we got back on. The prospect of not having such a great orator as our guide on the next bus was a disappointing one so we decided to remain with him through the one and a half hour tour. On route in addition to pointing out various spots of interest he also told us that famous authors of the city included  Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the creator of Sherlock Holmes, Ian Rankin, author of the Inspector Rebus series of crime thrillers, J. K. Rowling, the author of Harry Potter, who wrote her first book in an Edinburgh coffee shop (Nicholson’s Cafe) the Elephant House and Black Medicine, and Adam Smith the economist and author of The Wealth of Nations, born in Kirkcaldy.

Edinburgh has been home to the actor Sir Sean Connery, famed as the first cinematic James Bond. It is the hometown of the former Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, Tony Blair, who was born in the city and attended Fettes College;^[ On the more sinister side, famous criminals from Edinburgh's history include Deacon Brodie, pillar of society by day and burglar by night, who is said to have influenced Robert Louis Stevenson's story, the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and the murderers Burke and Hare, who provided fresh corpses for anatomical dissection. The telephone pioneer Alexander Graham Bell was born here and educated at the Edinburgh Academy. Another name connected to the city includes Nobel laureate; Charles Darwin, the biologist who discovered natural selection.

The next time the bus stopped at High Street - Royal Mier we got off and walked through the buzzing and crowded street to The Edinburgh Castle. At the entrance we took an audio guide each and spent some time taking pictures of the breathtaking view of the city from there. Plugging the head phones of the numbered guide we walked into the castle.  It is an ancient stronghold which dominates the sky-line of the city of Edinburgh from its position atop Castle Rock. It is Scotland's second-most-visited tourist attraction. Human habitation of the site is dated back as far as the 9th century BC with the St Margaret's Chapel here, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, which dates from the early 12th century.

As with all castles, Edinburgh's fortress has been a centre of military activity. It is one of the few that still has a military garrison, albeit for largely ceremonial and administrative purposes. The Governor of the Castle has always been the head of the Army in Scotland. The castle till date continues to have a strong connection with the Army. Sentries stand watch at the castle gatehouse after opening hours, with responsibility for guarding the Honors of Scotland located on the first floor of the Royal Palace building and known as the Crown Room. These are the Scottish Crown Jewels and Regalia. They include the Crown of Scotland, Scepter and Sword of State.

The crown dating back to 1540 is made of Scottish gold and is set with 94 pearls, ten diamonds and 33 other precious and semi-precious gemstones. The Sceptre is also made of gold, and topped with a large Rock Crystal (Quartz). The most treasured possession of Scotland is also located among the honours. It is the Stone of Destiny, otherwise known as the Stone of Scone, upon which the monarchs of Scotland are traditionally crowned. It had been taken to England and incorporated into the Coronation Chair in Westminster Abbey but was returned to Scotland in 1996 on the understanding that it be returned to Westminster for subsequent coronations.

My favourite places in the castle are the small and pretty St. Margaret's Chapel, which  King David I built as a private chapel for the royal family and dedicated  to his mother, Saint Margaret of Scotland, This building is still used for various religious ceremonies such as weddings and christenings, with a capacity of approximately 25 people. The second being the Scottish National war Memorial. Walking through the memorial I heard the words of the famous soldier James Graham of Culverhouse on the audio guide – “It is not the expiry pang that is worth thinking of. It is the memory which the soldier leaves behind him like the trail of light of the sinking sun”. I liked the words so much that I rewound the audio several times just to note the exact words.

Handing over our audio sets we took a long walk through the Royal Mier in front. The road is lined on both sides by a number of souvenir shops from where we bought the traditional checked woolen Scarf’s, Pullovers and Sweaters. Sitting at an outside table at a Café on the street lunch was a huge Chicken and Salad Sandwich each with a Kiwi chilled smoothies. There is something about the combination of a chilled drink on a cold windy day with the warmth of the sun, watching people leisurely go by, that is beautiful and relaxing and soothes ones mind. We took the bus back to Waverley Bridge and spent the rest of the evening strolling around Princess Street and after shopping had dinner at the Pizza hut there.

Breakfast at the hotel the next morning was not a buffet but a variable menu with a few options  I chose to have a small portion of mixed cereal with honey and cold milk while waiting my neatly arranged plate of scrambled egg, a piece of beacon and sausage each, baked beans and tomato with toast. While waiting for others to finish and for my tea I also had a portion of fresh fruit. We took a bus to Waverley Bridge and since the Hop on & Off Bus passes are valid for 24 hours we took a ride on one to the Royal Yatch Britannia. There was a pre recorded audio guide on the bus that day and we were glad we had stayed on the bus the day before completing the tour with the humorous commentator.

The Royal Yacht Britannia is steeped in history and filled with artifacts from The Royal Collection. It is now in the historic port of Leith. The experience started in the Visitor Centre located on the second level of Ocean Terminal, Edinburgh's waterfront shopping and leisure complex where we discovered Britannia's fascinating story. Then we stepped aboard for the self-led audio handset tour. The audio tour took us around its five decks giving a unique insight into what life was like for the Royal Family, Officers and Yachtsmen. Highlights include the State Dining Room, the Drawing Room, the Sun Lounge, the Wardroom and the Chief Petty Officers’ Mess. The luxury, opulence and grandeur of the lives of the Royal family which one can visualize visiting this Yatch are breath taking. I loved the Yatch and through all the photographs and mementos there brought to mind the life of Lady Diana – of whom I was a great fan, her honey moon with Prince Charles on it and the time she spent there with her children.

Next we took a bus ride to Rosslyn Chapel from Waverley, picking up carry away burgers, and coffee not wanting to spend time over a sit down lunch. The scenery around the Chappell was heavenly. I could not carry on inside without taking a good many pictures of the hills and lush woods around which was entwined the cute township. The Chapel is unique and famed world wide for the beauty of its carvings and the aura of mystery and magic that surrounds it. Built in 1446 by William St. Clair it is a major feature in the last part of Dan Brown's 2003 novel The Da Vinci Code, and where the picture was subsequently filmed though many incorrect assertions were made about the structure. Rosslyn Chapel stands on the edge of the steeply wooded Esk Valley. The narrow rocky gorge below with its fast flowing water gives Rosslyn its name. The richly wooded Rosslyn Glen (river) offers pleasant walks and magnificent view of the Rosslyn Castle. The Chapel has much to delight, intrigue and inspire one. It was closed to public worship until 1861 when it was opened again as a place of worship according to the rites of the Scottish Episcopal Church. Rosslyn Chapel and the nearby Rosslyn Castle are located at the village of Roslin, Midlothian, Scotland

After a tour of the chapel we had buttered scones and mulberry muffins with excellent tea at the Tea Room beyond the gift shop of the chapel. Then we proceeded into the woods. It is a very adventurous trek and not many venture down to see the glen (river) and the castle. It is not advisable for those who are not willing to traverse narrow hill tracks and therefore mother sat by the chapel. The unsure roads led us to a beautiful bridge over the river which we crossed over to the small castle which is closed. The chilly wind blowing through the quite woods actually sent shivers down my spine. We broke into a sweat on the climb back to the Chapel in spite of the cold. The quaintness of the place surrounded by hills, partly covered in the cotton wool like clouds floating above was picturesque. After long wait at a café near the bus top over large mugs of coffee – I needed the energy booster; we took the bus back to Waverley Bridge. Having dinner at a café on Princess Street we headed back to the hotel.

The next morning waking early we made it to the Waverley Station to take the train to Inverness. Picking up Almond coated and Black Currant Jam stuffed croissants and coffee from the Upper crust counter we boarded the train which left at 8.45am. The train ride through the picturesque Scottish lands of Carrbridge, Aviemore, Kingussie, Dalwhinnie, BlairAtholl, Pitlochry and Perth was beautiful and I could not help hoping the trains didn’t breeze past with such speed. The black and white spotted cows’ lazily chewing cud in the meadows by streams, the horse bending over the lush green grass of stud farms by shimmering water bodies in the morning sun was a treat. However when we reached Inverness at 11.45 am walking down to the Ness River with the two bridges on either side of the road I was glad we didn’t take any longer reaching there. It was a picture perfect view.

Not wanting to miss a single moment of the pretty sight we settled down at a window side table of a Café over looking the Ness with a view of St. Andrew's Cathedral on the banks of the River Ness. After lunch of a cream of chicken soup followed by pork chops and apple tart with ice cream we walked down to the bus stop on Rose Street to take the bus to Loch Ness. En route the cheery driver cum guide pointed out to the various picturesque sights.  Loch Ness is a large, deep, beautiful freshwater Loch in the Scottish Highlands extending for approximately 37 km southwest of Inverness. Its surface is 52 feet above sea level. Loch Ness is best known for the alleged sightings of the legendary Loch Ness Monster, also known as "Nessie”   

We took the Cruise boat to the Urquhart Castle. It is close to the village of Drumnadrochit. Though extensively ruined, it was in its day one of the largest strongholds of medieval Scotland, and remains an impressive structure, splendidly situated on a headland overlooking Loch Ness. It is also near the castle where the majority of Nessie (Loch Ness Monster) sightings occur. The sights from the boat were splendid and with the chilly wind blowing our hair and freezing our faces we stood on the top deck looking out at the rough dark waters. Balancing our-selves on the swaying boat in the then turbulent water we had coffee picked up from the café on the lower deck and took lovely pictures from various angles of the Ness. After a tour of the castle we took the bus back to Inverness. We took the train to Edinburgh at 6.30 pm when it was still very well sunlit. Till then we went for a walk around the town in the light drizzle, crossing over the bridges on the Ness to get a glimpse of it from every angle. It felt like walking through a picture in one’s dreams.   

The next morning after breakfast at the Hotel in Edinburgh we took a bus to Waverly station. After a long wait at 12.10 we took the one hour train ride to Leuchars. St Andrews – Market Street was about a 15 minute Taxi ride from Leuchars Station. It seemed much shorter as the Taxi driver, very friendly and talkative kept us entertained. I loved the town of St Andrews which was the former royal burgh on the east coast of Fife, Scotland. It is named after Saint Andrew the Apostle standing on the North Sea coast between Edinburgh and Dundee. Scotland's oldest university is the University of St Andrews. From mediaeval times until the Reformation, St Andrews was the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland, its bishop being the primus of the Scottish church. Today, its historic cathedral lies in ruins.

St Andrews is known the world over as the "home of golf". This is partly  because the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, exercises legislative authority over the game worldwide (except in the United States and Mexico), and also because the famous links (acquired by the town in 1894) is the most frequent venue for The Open Championship, the oldest of golf's four major championships. Visitors travel to St Andrews in great numbers for several courses ranked amongst the finest in the world, as well as for the sandy beaches. After a short walk around Market Street we hired a car from Barnett’s of St Andrews at 66 Largo Road to take us to the other Fife fishing villages. Luckily a copy of the Indian driving license was readily accepted along with 45 pounds to hire it for a day though we had just half the day left.   

Map in hand, asking our way around we drove down the beautiful road flanked on both sides by lush green grass and trees. We reached the town of Crail. It is a former royal burgh in the East Neuk of Fife, Scotland. Built around a harbour, it has a particular wealth of vernacular buildings from the 17th to early 19th centuries, many restored by the National Trust for Scotland,  Today fishing boats still operate from Crail’s picturesque harbour After lunch at a Café in the central town of white wine and Penne Pasta and Lasagna we drove down the smooth roads amidst sprawling picturesque fields and meadows to the Anstruther Harbour. ‘A fringe of Gold on a beggar’s mantle is how James II of Scotland described Anstruther the East Neuk of Fife with its burghs built around sheltered bays and surrounded by rich farmland. For years Anstruther East Neuk’s largest town has been a popular destination for family holidays due to its quaint harbourside buildings and seaside location. From its monastic beginnings, life in the burgh has revolved around the sea and the harbour – fishing, overseas trade and even smuggling making the town important in the history of Fife.

Driving out of Anstruther about little over 2 miles was  Pittenween which is the main fishing centre of the East Neuk. Its long history dating back to the 7^th century is very much connected to the sea. Its name is of Pictish origins and means ‘place (pit) by or of the cave(weem)” A drive around the towns winding streets will reveal many treasures – a town whose name is as picturesque as its setting. From here we drove down further and every two miles or so we came across very pretty towns like St Monans, Elie and since it was past six we decided against all wishes to turn around and head back to St Andrews. On the drive back we were glad that we had hired the car or we could not have been so flexible in our tour of the fishing villages. These villages were the best part of my Scotland tour and I took a number of pictures.  Returning the car, dropping the key off outside the closed shop we headed back to Leuchars station. After picking up sandwiches and coffee takeaway from the Starbucks café on Market Street we took a taxi ride. The Taxi driver was very enthusiastic and friendly though he had been up since 6 am as it was peak season. Taking the 8.45 train we reached Edinburgh, Haymarket Station at 9.45Pm.

The only place we could possibly head for dinner that would be opened till as late was our neighbourhood, friendly Prince of India Restaurant. It was raining and the warmth inside along with the Pankaj Udhas ghazals playing in the background was a reminder that it was time to go back home and that the beautiful vacation was near over save a two days in London on the return.  Looking at the well stocked bar I had regret that we had not had time to visit a working Scotch Malt whisky distillery for which Scotland is known worldwide. It was on the itinerary but we missed it due to time constraint. We slept well after a dinner of Tandoori roti, mixed vegetable, dal and chicken curry which the chef had taken care to prepare to our taste knowing we would prefer Indian food that tasted Indian and not Scottish. 

The next morning with a heavy heart we left the hotel by Taxi after breakfast to take the 9am train to London - Paddington, from Waverley station.  On the train ride back I had my eyes glued outside as usual. Soon the Scottish lands got left behind. It made me realize, Scotland’s abundant soft water which gives it the green hills, forests, shimmering Lochs, tumbling streams, Salmon rivers and   towering and towering waterfalls and the unique malt whiskies it is also what gave me a relaxing and beautiful vacation to remember and cherish a life time.