Sikkim

From Nathu La the driver--he doubled as our guide--took us to Baba Harbhajan Mandir which is at a height of   13, 500 feet. This mandir has been erected in the memory of a soldier, Harbhajan Singh (1941-1968), who drowned in a stream while on duty. Initially his body could not be found. According what I gathered from a handbook on Sikkim, Harbhajan Singh appeared in the dream of a fellow soldier and told him where his body was lying and also requested him to construct a samadhi for him.

The Shrine for Baba Harbhajan Singh

Accordingly, a Samadhi was constructed for him at Chhokya Chho and later reconstructed at the present site enroute to Nathu La Pass. The soldiers believe that the Baba patrols the border and will warn them of any dangers.

They believe that the Baba takes care of them in the harsh terrains and that, in case an Indo-China war erupts again, he would inform soldiers on both sides of the border of the impending war three days in advance. It seems the Chinese set aside a chair for the Baba during the flag meetings between India and China.

The mandir has the portrait of the Baba. His uniform, a camp bed, and other personal effects are also stored here. It is said that his sheets become crumpled in the mornings and his boots become muddy in the evenings. Devotees leave a bottle of water and arrange to collect it later. They believe that the water acquires curative powers once blessed by the Baba. 

The Baba’s name was on the payroll till recently and he was promoted as if he were still in service. The offerings left behind by devotees used to be sent to the family.

Every year, the Baba was considered to be on a two-month leave and his belongings were brought back to his native village during September.

In 2006, a retired subedar filed a case in the court against the army and the defense ministry accusing them of propagating superstition.

Probably as a result of this case, devotees are requested not to leave any offerings or donations in the mandir. I saw a notice to that effect. The army mess at the mandir has been closed down and the distribution of Prasad on Tuesdays and Saturdays has been discontinued. 

Tiny yellow alpine flowers on mountain sides


A tiny village

We headed for Gangtok from the mandir. On our way back to Gangtok, we stopped again at Lake Changu. This lake is at a distance of 35 kilometers from Gangtok.

Yak walas come rushing the moment your vehicle stops at the lake


Lake Changu looking heavenly with clouds for company



The lake at close quarters

The lake had looked spectacular from above as we were coming down the mountain. We stood at the bank and watched the peaceful lake under the clouds. Situated at a height of over 12,000 feet, the one kilometer long glacial lake, Changu, gets its water from the ice of the surrounding mountains.

There is a signboard asking tourists not to walk on the frozen lake. I couldn’t help clicking it though the lake was anything but frozen when we went! The lake remains frozen till mid May. 

The signboard


Tsomgo, the Bhutia name for Changu, means source of the lake. This oval shaped lake is considered sacred by the locals. Fishing is not allowed here.

Lake Changu is one of the must see places in Sikkim. As it is on the highway leading to the border, you need a police permit to visit the place. Travel agents arrange it for a fee.

During the season, a lot of small shops can be found around the lake. 

Lake Changu is situated in beautiful surroundings. Increasing number of vehicles emitting toxic fumes and other factors such as human and yak wastes ending up in the lake obviously pollute the lake. Moreover, decomposition is slow because it is cold here throughout the year, making the lovely lake one of the polluted ones in the Himalayan region. That is perhaps why the water is not a clear blue as I had expected it to be. Nevertheless, I just did not feel like pulling myself away from the scenic spot.

From Gangtok, foreigners are allowed only up to Changu Lake, but Indians can travel beyond this place up to Nathu La.

A village amidst idyllic surroundings


An Army Camp

 

Battling Nature (clearing the landslide)