Mount Abu
About Mount Abu
The Raj period approached it as a relaxation place to rewind along with the royalties and ....
On the hills of a desert
Posted by sundayexpressOn the hills of a desert
By
Sujata Patnaik
Mount Abu the very name is evocative of the Dilwara Jain Temples. But this quaint hill station entices tourists for other reasons as well. First, it is the only hill station in the dry and arid state of Rajasthan known more for its forts, palaces, monuments and of course, its colourful ghagra-cholis, reverberating songs, dances, enchanting folklore, fairs and festivals. Mount Abu has therefore rightly earned the sobriquet verdant oasis in the hills. Second, unlike most other hill stations in India that came up as summer resorts under the patronage of the British Sahibs, Mount Abu dates back to antiquity.
Till the 11th century, Mount Abu was an important Vaishnav and Shaiva pilgrimage centre. It has been the chosen site of rishis and sages for performing penance. Ages ago, Guru Vashishtha is believed to have performed a yagna here, from where four agnikula Rajput clans (the Chauhans, Parmaras, Pratiharas and Solankis) emerged to protect the earth from demons. The period from 11th to 13th centuries, when the Dilwara Jain temples were constructed, converted Mount Abu to a Jain pilgrimage centre. However, it was an English visitor Col. James Todd who brought this hidden 1,220 mts high hill-station into the limelight in 1822.
Mount Abu is situated at the southern tip of the Aravalli range and comes under Sirohi District of Rajasthan. This scenic hill is replete with rich green vegetation and thick forests of coniferous trees and flowering shrubs. A tourist bus takes us through verdurous hilly ghats. The picturesque foliage of palm trees, silver oaks and myriads of other forest shrubs and plants is a wonderful sight.
Huge billboards and posters advertising the names of lodges and hotels greet us before we reach the bus stand at Mount Abu. Names of hotels sound really interesting Hotel Hilltone, Hilltop, Hillock, Vishram etc. Several travel agencies are dotted across the main road. So are STD booths. Maruti cars and jeep taxis from both directions crowd the bustling road. Small, metallic 4-wheeled, pram-like carts known as Baba Gaadi are a novelty for the tourist. The local women are attired in colourful tie and dye robes in Gujarati style; most men wear earstuds in both earlobes.
The market place boasts of attractive shops selling curios in brass and wood, garments, shoes and other fancy ware. Both sides of the main road of this mini commercialised hill station are chock-a-block with posh restaurants, kiosks and eateries advertising a varied national and international cuisine. Most rooftops, especially of the lodges are adorned with solar panels for heating water. Myriad tourists take a stroll, revelling in the hilly ambience. We, too, walk down to Nakki Lake where, despite the dim lights and a light shower, people have queued up to take a boat ride. This artificial lake is believed to have been dug out by the gods with their nails. Hence the name Nakki from Nakh. We take in the cool, pleasant air and later, book our bus tickets for the following days sightseeing tour.
We stop at the Universal Peace Hall also called the Om Shanti Bhavan. This imposing structure is the Brahma Kumaris World Spiritual University. It is a huge hi-tech hall with a sitting capacity of almost 5000. The roof of this massive hall is not supported by any pillars.
We move on. The ancient temple of Arbuda Devi is on a high hill at 
over 4000 ft. Climbing a flight of nearly 360 steps to enter a cave crouching, to worship the age-old presiding deity in black, is indeed a tiring yet interesting experience. The sylvan surroundings of this hillock almost drive away our fatigue. Also called Adhar Devi, a visit to this powerful goddess is considered very propitious by devotees. In order to visit the shrines in and around Mount Abu, a visitor must be prepared to climb a lot of steps as most of the temples are situated on hilltops.
At Achalgarh is one of the oldest, imposing Shiva temples, Achaleshwar Mahadeo temple. A huge Nandi in panch dhatu, comprising gold, silver, copper, brass and zinc stands majestically, glittering at the entrance. Statues of Lord Shiva and Parvati are inside this 15th century temple.
A drive of another 15 minutes, and we cross the Mandakini Lake to reach Guru Shikhar, the highest peak on the Aravallis, at 1,722 mts above sea level. An ascent of about 400 steps takes us to the ancient cave temple of saint Dattatreya. The padukas of Guru Dattatreya who performed penance here are worshipped in the cave. A giant bell is suspended from a tall iron pole and a solar observatory in white is visible at a nearby hillock. As we descend, the guide shows us a pond, the Jamai talab in the valley. Legend says that theres a tribe in a hamlet below, where sons-in-law are ghar jamais. Hence the name. As expected, a steady round of jokes follow inside the bus. (A Savari around Guru Shikhar is available at a cost of Rs 120.)
The tourist bus takes us further to the last stopthe world famous Dilwara Jain temples. Derived from the word Devalwara, the place of temples, Dilwara is indeed a jewel in the crown of Mount Abu. The exteriors are so deceptive that the initial expectations are indeed low. But in sharp contrast, the ornate interiors shake us out of our stupor.
The temple complex is chiselled in white marble. The main group consists of a cluster of five temples constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries. The elaborate courtyards, columns, porticos and domes with engravings in pristine white marble throb with life. The first temple known as Vimal Vasahi built in 1031 AD is dedicated to Lord Adinath, the first Jain Tirthankara. The intricate carvings of nymphs, musicians, the elaborate arches, splendid pillars and domes, the circular rims, all in white marble are a treat for the eye. The idol of Adinathji is placed in the sanctum sanctorum.
The second remarkable temple is the Luna Vasahi temple, built by two brothers Vastupala and Tejapala in the 13th century. Profusely sculptured with floral designs, elephants, snakes etc, this shrine is dedicated to Lord Neminath, the 22nd Jain tirthankara.
The Pittalhar temple dedicated to Rishabhdeoji, the 3-storeyed chaumukhaji or Khartar Vasahi temple dedicated to Parsvanath, the 23rd tirthankara and the Mahavir Swamiji temple dedicated to the last tirthankara Mahavir Jain are the other important temples of the main complex.
Elegant relics of the past, these exquisite temple carvings stand as mute testimonials to the rich and elaborate style of architecture of a bygone era. If not for anything else, certainly Mount Abus claim to fame is the existence of the Dilwara temples, known for their superb craftsmanship and visual splendour. Time doesnt seem sufficient enough to admire the Dilwara temple architecture. Be it the deities from the Hindu Pantheon on the pillars, the floral designs of lotus and creepers on the ceiling or the animals on the arches, the skill of the artisans seems to have reached the zenith.
We come back to the main town and get down near the Nakki Lake. A light downpour welcomes us. As we walk, we are slowly enveloped by a thin film of clouds. It is early October and therefore just a matter of seconds before the weather changes. Theres a nip in the air. A white veil-like sheet of mist overpowers us. Its a wonderful feeling, an out-of-the-world aura that rejuvenates and uplifts our spirits. We keep walking till we reach an open-air restaurant and admire the panoramic scene from the outer porch. Almost a quarter of an hour later, the moist clouds sail away and the afternoon resumes its normal look.
A sumptuous lunch of a Gujarati-thali over, we stroll towards Nakki Lake. The lake is in the heart of the town and has boating facilities. Several hotels and lodgings are in the vicinity. A giant rock shaped like a toad overlooks the lake and is called Toad Rock. At the entrance gate, we meet Soni Chanewali, who hawks chana masaledar. Dressed in typical Rajasthani gear, the mirror-inlaid colourful ghaghra-choli, large white-metal earrings, ethnic bangles and silver anklets very much intact, Soni seems to be doing brisk business. Like most people in the area, she is courteous, and willingly acquiesces to be photographed. On one condition that we send her a copy, of course.
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This article originally appeared in The Sunday Express.
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