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Jaisalmer

Posted by Soumya Srinivasan
Aug 19, 2007 | 755 views | Read 16 Comments   | Forward to a Friend

I traveled by road to Jaisalmer from Delhi with my sister. On the way, we stopped at two beautiful cities, Jaipur and Jodhpur, the pink city and the blue city. Jodhpur itself seems to be in the desert region. Jaisalmer is situated deep inside the desert. From Jodhpur, as we approached the desert, I could see a lot of deer, camels and peacocks on the sides of the road. Unfortunately--just as we see dogs killed by speeding vehicles at other places on the road--I saw a deer that had been mowed down by a truck.

There was, of course, very little by way of vegetation as we approached the desert region.

At Jaisalmer, there was a lovely golden yellow everywhere.

The fort, the temples, the havelis, the hotels and houses --all are built of locally available yellow sandstone. No wonder the city is called the golden city. I did not feel that it was far too much yellow. In fact, I could not get enough of the lovely colour! I brought home some of the colour. No, I did not bring home any sandstone article. The colour is here, in my mind. I can never forget it; I can never forget the Jaisalmer experience.
Jaisalmer city
The yellow sand dunes that are not very far from the city add a lot to its tourist value. The sight of the amazing dunes fills you with wonder. I was thrilled to realize that I was in the midst of the great Thar Desert, about which I had read in the textbooks as a student. There is hardly any vegetation except some cacti and as you go deeper there is no vegetation at all.
We went camel riding twice. The first time it was in the early evening when the sand was quite hot. It was quite an experience as the camel heaved itself up and was quite scary, but the second time I was prepared for the two jerky movements. Both times we returned after a few kilometers. Many tourists go for longer safaris and camp in the desert. That would be quite an adventure I am sure.
Desert Vegetation

The next day we woke up early in the morning and went to watch the sunrise over the desert. It was very cold in contrast to the heat of the previous evening. The sharp difference in temperature is amazing. As we stood waiting for the sun to rise, the camel walas surrounded us again and we succumbed to their persuasion and hired camels for a ride. It was late in the season and many of the foreign tourists had already left. The camel walas outnumbered the tourists and some of them had to return disappointed.

It was a beautiful sight as the sun rose slowly over the sand dunes. Initially, it is pitch dark, slowly the sun starts painting the sky with its rays. I had seen sunrise over the mountains and sunrise over the sea quite a few times. This was the first time I saw sunrise over the desert. The barren landscape of the desert early in the morning was awesome.
Sunrise Over the Desert

Later in the day, we visited the fort built by Jaisal in the thirteenth century. The fort is called sonar quila because of its beautiful golden hue. It merges beautifully with its surroundings, all yellow because of the yellow sand and dust and absence of vegetation. We walked at a leisurely pace in the narrow streets of the old city inside the fort. There are houses, temples and shops. The shops sell ethnic Rajasthani stuff. The shops have beautiful wares to sell but with prices to suit the pockets of foreigners and NRIs. So, as my sister did asli shopping, I did window-shopping.

In one of the shops was a French girl who very expertly applied mehendi on my sisters hands. I refused her services because I was cut up with her. She had asked my sister whether I was her mother. What impudence I thought--just because I was in a sari and my sister in her jeans and T-shirt. (Okay, okay actually, its a little more than that. She is almost a decade younger and a lot slimmer.)

It seems the young French woman came to Jaisalmer as a tourist and stayed on because she loved the place. She lives in a Brahmin priests house. They have adopted her as a daughter.

Later we visited some lovely havelis with their quaint jharokas. I tried to visualize young Rajasthani girls peeping through them. We came back to the hotel where we stayed to have gatte ki subzi with rotis. As the desert is devoid of vegetation, Rajasthanis prepare gatte ki subzi out of besan. The hotel where we stayed was built to be in sync with the rest of the city. It was also in yellow sandstone and was architecturally similar to the many of lovely buildings in Jaisalmer. It had all the modern amenities yet retained the ethnic look.

We left for Delhi hoping that we would be able to visit the beautiful city once again.
Jharokas of Jaisalmer
Camels Waiting for Customers Before Sunrise



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