Amritsar -- The Frontier Town by Devika Rajan - travelogue on Sulekha Travel

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Amritsar -- The Frontier Town

Posted by Devika Rajan

Nov 30, 2006 | 2023 views | Read 2 Comments | Forward to a Friend

Amritsar -- The Frontier Town

It was close to midnight when our train disgorged us at Amritsar railway station. There was a nip in the air; it was early March--one of the best times of the year to visit. Temperatures there can climb to 45 degrees come May, or go to sub-zero in January. A good part of the next morning I spent lazily at my window, watching the road and the deserted grounds of the Khalsa College just in front of my hotel. I hardly saw a car on that broad expanse of road. Only cycles, although it was very much a working day. A refreshing change from the busy streets of Mumbai.

The first port of call was to pick up Rajwinder, who accompanied me on a dizzy just- looking-and-lapping-it-all-up-tour of the markets close to the Golden Temple. The roads were narrow and crowded, and cycle-rickshaws hurtled by, deftly avoiding pedestrians by a few inches. The air smelt of rain. We walked by shops selling everything from salwar suits to jewellery and books. I noticed the signboard of a shop selling only pugrees (turbans), another shop for kripans only! The polite and welcoming shopkeepers were eager to display their wares, even though I confessed that I would not be purchasing much. We wound up our morning chakkar by taking a cycle-rikshaw ride, with the top canvas pulled far back. I really enjoyed that. It must've been years since I had last ridden in a cycle-rickshaw.

Come lunch time, and what better than the dhaba across the road in front of our hotel, the Kulchha Palace. Kulchhas with chana and a salad as accompaniment. Sizzling hot, cooked in generous dollops of ghee with cubes of butter served separately! It was delicious, though I knew I'd have to work it all off after the trip. Some more friends joined us for lunch. We were around eight persons, and ate a meal fit for a king, on a total bill of less than Rs. two hundred! Rich and tasty food is something that is available in most of Amritsar's dhabas. In fact my friends there claimed that the dhaba food was much tastier than hotel food, and I was inclined to agree.

That night our dinner was at Kesar dha dhaba, Established in 1916 read the board. Tandoori rotis and a mixed vegetable sabzi, with a ma ki dal. Mmmm I didnt realize that the humble dal could taste so good! This was followed by a glorious kulfi served in an earthern plate. Yes, and don't forget the lassis of Punjab. In tall heavy tumblers, rich and thick, this is a delicious meal in itself.

We visited the Golden Temple (or the Harmandir Saheb, as it is referred to) two times during our stay there.

-The Golden Temple-

The temple's gilded domes stand reflected in the glowing waters of the large tank, in the center of which the main structure stands. We approached the temple by a causeway built over the tank. The city itself is named after this body of water, the Amrit Sarovar. There was an air of serenity, as the place echoed to the sound of the chants from the Granth Saheb, the holy book of the Sikhs. There are no idols or gods in the temple. It is the Book, which is the object of adoration in a Gurudwara. Next to the tank, I was quite bemused to see a tree, the branches of which were crowded with sparrows come to roost for the night. Surprisingly, there were electric lights close to the tree, and the sound of the chants resounded about it. Yet the birds were silent and rested. It is believed that the sparrows come to hear the reading of the Granth Saheb. On our visit the next morning, we saw that not a bird was on the tree, and what was more surprising, the tree itself was laden with edible berries; it was surprising that any could be left on it, considering the number of birds that were on it the previous evening.

-A View Of The Golden Temple By Night-

The Wagah Border is just 30 kms away from the city, and is worth a visit. It is open to the public, and can be visited at sundown, when flags on both sides of the border are lowered. The drive to the border is through the lush countryside of Punjab. Reaching the place, and walking by the neat lawns and pathways, I was indeed excited to be able to see over to Pakistan. I called over to a jawan on the other side, Namasteji, followed by Assalaam aaleikum. He smiled back. It felt great to see his smile. It really did. It was good when people from across waved to us, and we waved back.

-Signboard At The Wagah Border-

However, the ritual of lowering the flag is tinged with the historical animosity that has existed in the Indo-Pak relationship. Patriotic Hindi film songs are played over loudspeakers. "Sar kata sakte hain lekin sar jhuka satke nahin," they sang out. The people seated there were encouraged to shout slogans by the BSF, who guard the borders. The air resounded to slogans like Hindustan Zindabad and Vande Mataram. From across, when there was a lull on our side, I could hear shouts of Pakistan Zindabad, and La illa-la illa la. The soldiers on either side had obviously been chosen for their height and physique. They looked impressive in their stiff turbans with starched fans, easily towering seven feet from the tips of their polished boots to the tops of their starched turbans.

-indian Soldiers at The Wagah Border-

They marched with their legs rising parallel to the ground, showing the soles of their shoes almost in the face of the persons opposite. They puffed their chests, and postured belligerently at the other side. It was an impressive sight! But I wondered, if this is what we did during peacetime, what would not we do during war? It was jingoism at its best, a dramatic display of power on both sides. And had it not been so dead serious, it could have almost seemed comical. Like a mock war being staged. But as sights go, this was impressive. Perfect timing and synchronisation, as the flags on either side were lowered simultaneously. The whole ritual is something worth witnessing.

-Wagah Border : The Pakistani and Indian Flags Are Lowered As Dusk Settles-

Jallianwala Bagh, situated just opposite the Golden Temple is another memorable sight. It is a large park, enclosed on all sides, with an entry from one gate only. The Bagh has been preserved as a memorial to the martyrs who died there in 1919. There is the old well, into which so many of the trapped people had jumped and lost their lives. Bullet marks can still be seen on the walls. As a matter of fact, the walls have been preserved with these marks intact, as part of the memorial, a reminder to us that our freedom was hard won.

-The Walls of The Structure In Jallianwala Bagh : The Bullet Holes Have Been Preserved in Wooden Frames-

Amritsar, certainly a town worth visiting witness to many of the significant and bloody events that have occurred in the history of the Sikhs, and the Indian nation.

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Fact File:

How to reach:

One can travel by road, railway or flight from Chandigarh to Amritsar. (distance by road: 217 kms.) The journey from Delhi to Amritsar can be done comfortably in six hours by the Shatabdi express. A few international carriers also have flights from Canada and Britain, directly to Amritsar.

Accommodation

Hotel rooms can be booked on-line on sites easily available through google. There are rooms to suit all pockets. For a proper appreciation of the spirit of the town and the feeling of fraternity that pervades the Sikh religion, there is nothing better than the experience of staying in the accommodation provided free to pilgrims at the Temple, and a meal at the langar. Donations of your choice--there is no compulsion--are accepted at these venues for the upkeep of these facilities.

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