Mandu

As one goes deep into the process of absorption of the reality that is Mandu, one is left baffled at the sheer magnitude of the edifices that had been created in medieval times. One may also be left puzzled at the utility of them all.

We depart for Mandu in the early hours. The road from Indore goes via Ghatabilod, from where a left turn takes our car to Dhar; another left turn just before the city takes us to a small village by the name of Lunehri, and then we turn right for the way to Mandu. The road is bumpy to begin with, but it gains in silkiness as it reaches the destination. A very sharp incline awaits us just two kilometres away, which we negotiate without difficulty, passing through a number of gateways to enter the town. The distance of 99 kilometres is completed in two and half hours.

On way to Mandu
 

Mandu as a town is small, accommodating around 15000 residents, of which the majority are tribals. It is renowned as a perfect monsoon destination, when the vast reaches acquire greenery that is a tad complicated to complement. Even the valleys below are said to be home to idly floating clouds that nest during the rainy season. The highest point in Mandu extends to 633 metres above sea level.

Hotel Malwa Resort, where we put up
 

After checking into the Malwa Resort, maintained by Madhya Pradesh Tourism, we set off immediately in search of grandeur. Rewa Kund is the first in our itinerary, along with Baz Bahadur’s Palace and Roopmati’s Pavilions. All three are located in near vicinities and are historically linked.

Baz Bahadur Palace
 

Legend goes that during early sixteenth century, Baz Bahadur, the ruler of Mandu fell head and heels over Rani Roopmati, the daughter of king of Dharampuri. She had been married, but due to non-compatibility, had separated from her husband and was living with her father. The love between Baz and Roop (if I may be permitted to call them such) deepened and the former brought her to Mandu. They stayed separately and were involved in no hanky panky (our guide is quick to add). Both were great lovers of music, in fact Rani Roopmati was an excellent singer who could do strangely beautiful things with her music.
 

Baz Bahadur had his own palace from where he would conduct his daily activities. When we enter his palace, we are greeted by big courtyards and high terraces. One of the big rooms also served as the music and dance hall, and when my guide gives a musical rendition from the other side of the pretty long courtyard, we are struck by the astounding natural acoustics that the palace has to offer.

Roopmati Pavilion
 

The romance that Mandu has to offer is best felt at Roopmati Pavilion. Originally an observation post for the army, the upper quarters were converted as the abode of Rani Roopmati. There were two advantages for Baz’s consort – from here she had a bird’s eye view of her lover’s palace and secondly, she was able to view the Narmada which flowed in the valley below.

Rani Roopmati was a devout worshipper of Narmada and would partake in her daily meals only after a darshan (witnessing) of the sacred river. But many days would sometimes pass, especially in the monsoons, when she was not able to have the darshan because of the thick cloud cover. This did not allow her to have her meals for long periods. Then, it is said, that she had a divine dream that communicated to her that the rivers of Narmada were also present in a pool of water near the palace. That pool of water is now better known as Rewa Kund.

Roopmati Pavilion is by far the most interesting spot in Mandu, and not only for the love angle. The views that the top of the 72 m high fort offer are too fascinating to be believed. Far stretches of hills, vales, plateaus, forests and the barren lands presents a wide array of scenic views that charm the heart.  The view below is dented by a strong presence of mist that hangs in the air with stubborn resilience.

The essence of Mandu gets sweeter by the love story of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati. This has been put to effect on the celluloid earlier, but days are not far off when another movie on the romance will be prepared, using gorgeous costumes, exquisite dances (in Switzerland, where else!), spectacular sets and a different script. Imagine Shah Rukh Khan as Baz Bahadur and a nubile yet-to-be-named nymph as Rani Roopmati! You get the picture, don’t you? Hats off to Bollywood!

Jami Masjid
 

Our next points on the itinerary are the Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah’s tomb. Both are examples of brilliant architectural designs reflected in high plinths, huge domes and wide arrangement of arcs and pillars. Hoshang Shah’s tomb is also believed to be the precursor of the Taj Mahal, since architects were sent by Shah Jahan to have an understanding of how to build a magnificent mausoleum.


Hoshang Shah Tomb

We also visit Jahaz Mahal and Hindola Mahal. Both were probably constructed by Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din-Khilji for his harem. Jahaz Mahal is, as the name suggests, shaped like a ship. It is huge, extending over a wide area of 120 m and double storeyed. It is of course a pleasure to view, both the lakes on either side – the Moonj Talab and the Kapur Talab are well maintained. The Hindola Mahal is a swinging palace (as noticed in its design), and has a plethora of small rooms, baths and other cosmetic paraphernalia to keep all the queens in good humour. The question that still remains in my mind is: why did the queens require so many baths; were they always playing in the mud or something?

Jahaz Mahal 


Hindola Mahal

We are also treated to the sights of the Echo Point, where a simple shout passes through a building, and another, right up to the mountains and booms back in an instant in a loud and clear echo. Much physics seems to have gone into this – but what exactly that is escapes me. Our guide says that this was a great help during times of war, when the sounds from the horses’ hoofs reverberated to provide indications of an impending attack.


Echo Point

The Nilkanth containing a Shiva shrine is 66 steps down and houses a neat shivling where one can worship without the help of any pujari.


Nilkanth Temple

Mandu also has twelve darwazas and various other palaces, forts and ruins that make it almost impossible to cover in a single trip. Sagar Lake offers boating possibilities, always a hit with the young.

Lake visible from our Resort

 

Lastly, SUNSET from Sunset Point

Hotels in Mandu:

Malwa Resort, Malwa Retreat, Hotel Rupmati

It is always preferable to book a hotel beforehand.

How to get there:

Air: Indore is the nearest airport, connected with all major cities.

Rail: Convenient railheads are Indore (99 km) and Ratlam (124 km).

Bus: Regular buses ply from Indore, Dhar, Ujjain, Ratlam, Bhopal.

Time to visit:

During the winter and the monsoons. The latter is usually preferred by tourists.