Chhattisgarh

The Trip

We depart from Raipur at around 7.30 in the morning. It is the month of April, it is supposed to be burning hot, but by a strange bit of luck, the weather is cloudy. My reliable Santro is at its best, and we are in Durg within an hour. But by then the rains have gathered enough momentum to create some doubts in my mind. Sushmita urges me on it is the beckoning of Maa, she reminds me. Doubts cleared, goddess firmly in our hearts, we proceed to our destination.

The Town

We reach Dongargarh before ten. The climate has softened quite a bit, the rains have more or less disappeared, leaving behind in its wake a wonderful blend of misty clouds, cool winds and purified atmosphere. The inclement conditions may have been the reason, the town is practically empty. None of the attachments that one sees in temple dominated towns is visible; in a way it is good since we realise that we could be provided an opportunity to pray and be one with the deity in silent bliss. A rare God-send opportunity, I may add.

A tehsil headquarter, Dongargarh is the main tourist as well as pilgrimage centre of the Rajnandgaon district.Thefamous temple of Maa BAMBLESHWARI is on a hilltop of 1600 feet.Thistemple is referred as Badi Bambleshwari. Another temple at groundlevel, the Chotti Bambleshwari issituatedabout 1/2 km. fromthe main temple complex. These temples are revered by lakhs of people of Chattisgarh and around who flock the shrine during the Navratris of Kavar (during Dashera) and Chaitra (during Ramnavmi).

There are two ways of going up the 1600 ft the 1100 steps or the ropeway. The ropeway is a recent addition, and a much needed support to pilgrims. The entire state of Chattisgarh falls in a heat zone, where temperatures have no qualms in shooting to regions beyond the reach of human endurance and at such times climbing the 1100 steps is obviously an arduous effort. I am reminded of our earlier sojourn to this holy temple in 1982, the ropeway then was just a distant dream, if any, when my father had a sun stroke while climbing up the steps in December. But the gruelling steps are still an attraction with many pilgrims, especially during the Navratri seasons.

No prizes for guessing which way we prefer. The ropeway-carriage climbs down as we approach, almost as if it were to our beckoning. The less than five minute ride up is riveting and fills Anindita with an inimitable pleasure that she reserves for occasions like these. Then a few climb up the stairs reach us to the precincts of the temple.

The ropeway leads to the temple at the hilltop, visiblethrough the trishul and the flagin the background

The lake visible from the ropeway-carriage


What goes up must come down

Dongar means mountains while Garh means fort. Legend goes that around 2200 years ago, Raja Veersen, a local king, was childless and upon the suggestions of his royal priests performed puja to the gods. Within a year, the queen gave birth to a son whom they named Madansen. Raja Veersen considered this a blessing of Lord Shiva and Parvati and constructed a temple here. The Maa Bamleshwari Devi temple has obviously attained great spiritual importance over the years.

The Puja & Later

We have a nice puja ceremony. No quantum of thanks can be enough for my local help Rajesh, who does an outstanding job of rendering our obeisance to Maa that much more spiritual. As the pujari performs the puja for us, we are transcended into an eternally blissful state.

The puja over, we saunter over to the area within the templewhich provide us an astounding view of the surrounds. It is beautiful beyond description, bestowed more so by the thin wisps of cloud and mists those hang in the air. The railway track which stretches on the plains below provides support to an express which darts through the variegated landscape in an astonishing speed. The nearby hills provide reasons for unanticipated imagination.

The Return

By three in the afternoon, after a sumptuous chaste food at the temple premises itself, we are destined for the long way home, felt shorter by the pleasing greenery that seems to have made a comeback of sorts in the fleeting rains.

The rocks around Dongargarh offer pleasant photo opportunities and the huge golden statue of Buddha provides indications of Buddhist inclinations too at this place.

The huge Buddha statue

Temple Timings

on Weekdays - 4.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m.
1.00 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.

on Saturdays & Sundays - 5.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.

How To Reach

Dongargarh is located at a distance of 40 kms from district headquarter Rajnandgaon and well connected with buses from Rajnandgaon. Dongargarh is also well connected with trains. It is on the Mumbai-Howrah main line at a distance of 170 kms from Nagpur and 100 kms from Raipur . The nearest airport is at Mana ( Raipur ).

Seasons To Visit

Dongargarh could be visited through out the year.