Assam

After the two searingly hot summer months when mercury soars and there is an oppressive air of stillness that makes one most uncomfortable, given the annoying power cuts that frequently paralyze activity, I was all set for my well deserved visit to Dooars. Growing up in nearby Kolkata, the lush green flood plains of Dooars, at 1,425m, was always a favourite getaway. Beautiful in any season, this picture-postcard destination is spectacular particularly just after the rains, especially for the romantically inclined.

The smell of the wet earth on the lush green hillsides, the sound and sight of rain as it falls now in a drizzle, then in a fierce downpour, and the little rivulets of water that spring up all around, as if by magic, you havent seen the real beauty of Dooars at all, if you havent been here in the rains. At Dooars the sound of silence will seep into your consciousness, and slowly seduce you into a calm you probably havent felt in years. Perhaps nowhere else in the country will you find a place where you wont hear the honk of a horn or the groans of an axle for as long as you choose. The pleasures are simple, but they are deeply satisfying - a short break here makes inroads into your soul, and sends an unfamiliar twinge to your heart when its time to leave. And when you finally leave, what youre going back to will never have seemed less appealing.

The hour and a halfs drive from Siliguri to Dooars was impressive. As we drove through the rolling hill slopes, fascinating verdure of tea gardens, high sal forests, vast meadows and meandering silvery mountain streams, we saw nature gradually unveiling its riches. Vehicles and noises are left behind and the air smells different. Soon you are enveloped by a matchless aroma emanating from the tea gardens. The palette displayed many shades of green, well manicured bushes, the symmetry broken only by the sudden appearance of a gurgling stream. A lazy mist curled through the hills making life a dreamy rhythm.

And, with the first sight of the small town of Dooars, cool and radiant, a sense of great peace and well-being envelopes the senses, the starting of a great holiday. The luminescent green fields, stretches of road covered in flowers making you feel as if you are walking along a coastal carpet, waterfalls cascading softly down mountain slopes with fluorescent green grass on every conceivable patch of earth, wildflowers dotting the mountainsides inviting indecisive butterflies to seize quick sips, trees heavy with purple-mauve blossoms melting into the blue of the distant hills the sights will leave you mesmerized.

Dooars is loaded with opportunities for a tte--tte with nature. A major attraction is the Buxa Tiger Reserve, a sanctuary spanning 76 sq. km, the largest forest in North Bengal. One has to take permission from the Deputy Field Officer at Alipurduar, to enter the reserve. We hired a jeep, and were warned to look left and right while riding, as animals kill more than 100 humans here every year. We were told that this untamed land sported elephants dropping in for breakfast, and tigers relishing their supper.

As we drove on the forest road, barely five feet in width, the long golden slant of the early morning sun was finding its way through the trees. Herds of spotted deer gazing nonchalantly walked past us, and a couple of wild boars eyed us suspiciously. The forest is mostly quiet, except for the metallic drone of the cicadas, which one gets used to. The towering trees of teak and sal occlude the sky, the variety of birds heard but not seen, and the occasional tantalizing glimpse of a forested mountain among the dense woodland is a treat to the eyes. Various horticultural delights like rocky outcrops covered in ferns, creepers dripping from tree trunks, colourful begonias and tall green grasses are visible.

Home to Indian bisons, sambars, deer, gaur, elephants, wild boars, tigers and leopards, this reserve provides excellent prospects for wildlife viewing and eco-tourism. Buxa is rich in bio-diversity and also has a rare collection of orchids and medicinal plants. It offers 100 percent pure indulgence in the uninhabited and pristine beauty of nature at its primitive best. From Buxa, we took a 13 km trek to Jayanti. The air was full of entrancing tunes and it seemed as if the birds and crickets were praising this unique location, while unceasingly uttering melodious mantras. Nature looked like a vivid temple and my mind was completely carried away by something beyond me, something I cannot define. Such enticing attractions do exist.

The trek ended with a warm reception of an old staggering priest at the stalactite cave of Jayanti, popularly known as the Mahakal cave. As we arrived at the end of the road, we saw the mauve hills in the distance with gossamer clouds drifting down, flutes of green all around and the mischievously gurgling Jayanti river flowing in front of us. The vast riverbed is strewn with numerous pebbles, its translucent water reflecting greenery on all sides. My tired body was almost lulled into a sleep by the soothing music of the river. It is difficult to imagine that every monsoon this same river becomes a headstrong mass of water, causing enormous loss to the people of northern Bengal. A broken roadway bridge could be located at a considerable distance, traversed by the river. Having relished the spectacular hill top views and the dancing clouds, we bid Jayanti goodbye, and headed back to our resort.

Dooars also offers the thrill of rafting down fast flowing, hair soaking and adrenalin pumping mountain streams with huge waves dashing against boulders and dizzy rapids- popularly known as white water rafting. Battling with the raging torrents and white water, and oaring down the staircase rapids and swirling whirlpools, you have to be prepared to take the roller coaster ride of your life!

Rafting has been a real wild water experience for me, which pulled me out of everyday existence and threw me into a world of thrills, chills and spills. Our starting point was at Melli, 2 hours from Dooars. The Teesta river at Dooars is known to be among the finest rafting stretches in the world, and originates at Cho Lhamu Lake. Graded on the international scale of II, III and IV, the waters of the rugged Teesta with rapids of varying intensity and character

Excitement began as I put on the figure hugging wet suit, and wore my bright red helmet. But was I not at the same time a little apprehensive of all that I would go through once I take to the water? I knew that rafting was not for the faint-hearted. The first part of the river proved to be gentle which allowed our instructor to repeat the procedures once again, for our benefit. Soon the act had to get serious. We could hear the roar of the water ahead, and I could see the fine mist marking the point where the fast flowing stream squeezed itself between the rocks. The boats brow cut through the whirling, surging water with the sun sparkling on the frothy waves. With my adrenalin pumping, all senses were alert, an unforgettable thrill as the river exhibited its raw power.

The spraying water soaked the front two rafters, as we bounced off and sped into the next rapid. Right forward, left backside, screamed the instructor as water filled the raft but mysteriously disappeared. Paddle right now! Right! he shouted, in a bid to keep the raft travelling in a straight line. The river kept changing, from deep and fast flowing, it suddenly dropped eight feet, and before we knew it, the front pointed skywards again. I held on tightly to the rope beside me, as the raft crashed over yet another drop. The freezing water got into my bone, as I tried paddling against the fierce rapids. I felt I had swallowed half of the Teesta by keeping my mouth open, yelling from the pure enjoyment of the plunge, coming out sputtering and coughing. Within moments, the river calmed down, and it was only a few hundred yards upstream.We were left cold, wet and somewhat benumbed, not knowing what was going to happen next.

The thrills of white water rafting are many, but safety is the principal concern. However, the team that guided us was well trained and courteous, providing us with all the safety equipment. I always felt safe in the very capable hands enjoying all the thrills.

These are just a few memorable moments of my vacation at this treasure trove of natural beauty. This picturesque destination is an environmentalists delight and a lesson to city-dwellers in maintaining natures pristine purity. My urban ears battered by high decibel living, woke up to birdsong in the mornings, a rare pleasure. The crackle of leaves in the nearby trees, the hum of crickets, and the whistling of the wind were the only sounds we heard over the few days.

The ubiquitous hill tops sunrise and sunset points took on an evocative beauty as I stood at the edge of a cliff surrounded by a dense forest, looking out onto a valley of mist, a light drizzle coating my skin like the freshest fragrance and I was assured that this was one of lifes unforgettable experiences.

QUICK FACTS

Getting there: By air to Bagdogra and then about 90 minutes by road to Dooars.

Staying there: Sinclairs Retreat Dooars at Chalsa. There are a number of other small resorts in the region. Sinclairs reservation can be done online at www.sinclairshotels.com

Doing there: Trekking, white water rafting, bird watching, mountain biking, visiting wildlife sanctuaries and camping.