Tawang

In the early morning of an early November day we started on a Tata Sumo van from Tezpur in Assam and reached Tawang in the late evening, traversing a distance of about 350 km. The travel time was 12 hours besides time taken for breakfast and lunch.

I must admit that sitting tight for such long hours in a van, arranged more for the tour operators pocket than for the comfort of passengers, was quite troublesome and sometimes painful. But nature all around us while travelling compensated the trouble. Mountain ranges, streams between the ridges, rivulets running alongside the road, turning and crossing, sometimes a hairpin bend sometimes a dead end but always forward we moved, continuously wobbling, sometimes passing under a jutted mountain body riskily creating a kind of fear and displeasure, compensated by wonder at every turn- fulfilled my hearts desire for adventure. A discerning tourist never fails to find on his way the big bodied Tibetan yaks and Mithun, a mixed bovine creature with a big black body and legs partly white, a native of Arunachal Pradesh. Mithun is the result of a a cross between wild Gaur and domestic buffalo. A Vet travelling with us said that they are never really domesticated. Eyes were feasting, hearts were expecting, nature was fulfilling our hopes.

On the way we crossed the Sela Pass, worlds second highest pass, at an elevation of 14000 feet. It runs through a small ridge along the paradise lake with bluish water, glimmering in the dying rays of the setting Sun. It was a bewitching beauty. Rhododendrons of various hues on both sides of the lake could be more appreciated a couple of months earlier. We were dog-tired as we reached Tawang. After some dinner, we took shelter in hotels for the night, under heavy woolen dresses and blankets, more protected by the room-heaters.

 Among the Indian States Arunachal Pradesh is the first to greet the morning sun daily. It is a land of rising Sun. Largest among the North-Eastern States, it is one of the most sparsely populated provinces of India. It has been Indias north-eastern border for ages, facing Bhutan, Tibet, China and Myanmar. It is a home to 26 major and minor tribes. The influence of Tibetan Buddhism is immensely felt here. It is a country of orchids, a biodiversity hotspot. The Himalayan grandeur with sparkling snow on the peaks and gurgling streams, rivers and rivulets in Tawang and Bomdila fulfil the hearts desire of a nature lover.

The northern Himalayan mountain ranges, spreading from west to east, criss-cross with the ranges running north-south. Five major rivers, Kameng, Subansiri, Lohit, siang and Tirap, winding their ways through the sylvan hills, creating falls, streams, rivulets and lakes, have divided the State into five river valleys. 80 per cent land is covered by woods. Mountaineering, trekking, boating, rafting are the usual sports the visitors may be engaged in, if they like.

The area covered by me was the western most part of the State, bordered on the west by Bhutan and on the north by Tibet. I concentrated on Tawang and Bomdila. Other places of visit fall en route.

Tawang   

The next morning as I came to the balcony of the hotel, the Tawang monastery on a hill, at an elevation of 10000 feet above the sea level, overlooking the vast Tawang valley, was seen flooded by the morning sun. We viewed it from different angles and later visited the monastery or Buddhist Gompa. Established by Rev Mera Lama Lodre Gyamtso, it is a place for spiritual communion by the followers of Gelugpa sect of the Mahayana school of Buddhism. It owes its name to the blessing (Wang) of the Lamas horse (Ta), as the legend goes. In the temple there is a 28 feet high golden statue of Lord Buddha.

                         Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh

It is the largest Gompa in the country, the second largest in Asia. It controls 17 Gompas in the region. Torgya festival is held here in December-January every year, when Monpas come from all around the region in their colourful dresses. More than 500 Lamas live here. It is the birthplace of 6^th Dalai Lama. The present Dalai Lama fled Tibet and took shelter in this monastery in 1959. In the Museum there are some ancient Buddhist scriptures, very big sample of elephant tusks, artistic goods made of brass and other metals, of woods carvings. Small but interesting, the Museum is worth visiting.

Jaswant Garh is a war memorial at Tawang, raised to pay homage to Jaswant Singh and other soldiers, who fought valiantly but were killed in the battle of Nuranang, during the Chinese aggression in 1962.

              Jaswant Garh, The War Memorial, Tawang

Tawang is a land of polygamous and polyandrous Monpas. They wear colourful dresses and caps with yaks pelt. They love jewellery. There are number of lakes and falls around Tawang, like P.T. TS O lake, Sangester lake, Nuranang falls and Gompas. Woolen blanket, rug, carpet weaving centers are also there. In the shops one may get some woolen dresses and artistic goods made by Monpas. The beauty of nature with pine, Christmas trees and other blooming trees are charming.

The uncertainties and suspense about the life and activities on the other side of the lofty mountains have always remained a mystery, specially when one finds the military jeeps and other vehicles move along the roads. It is devoid of human habitation. Except in the military camps there is nothing

Bomdila

At a height of 8500 feet, Bomdila, the Head quarter of West Kameng district, is inhabited mostly by Monpas, Shredukpen, Aka (Hrusso), Miji and Bogun tribes. Snow capped mountain ranges and peaks here have the same beauty and grandeur as in Tawang. Gorichen is the highest peak of the State. Kangto is another peak. Buddhist monasteries and Ethnographic museums are the other things of interest here. In the middle of the town is the small market, surrounded by high mountain ranges. Those living at higher elevation have to come down by stair like pathways on foot or to drive down to the place by round about routs.

Orchidariums

Bhalukpung is situated at the border, at a distance of 65 km from Tezpur. Tipi is five km away from Bhalukpung and Sessa is further away, at a distance of 24 km from Tipi. At Tipi there is a orchidarium and at Sessa there is a orchid sanctuary. Varieties of orchids may be seen in glass houses. Both are orchid lovers paradise.

Dearth of communication, absence of proper tourist information services, absence of proper vehicles for movement in such remote areas and absence of proper hotels have made the job difficult for tourists. Yet, the wealth of nature, the flora and fauna ever lure the nature lovers. The presence of military personnel and their active supervision have curtailed the freedom of visitors to some extent but such things seem natural in such strategic border areas with China. The temperature during winter remains below zero degree Celsius which makes living more difficult for those not really acclimatised. It is best to visit such areas during summer and spring, after the rains. All the combined difficulties invite the adventurous visitors more, for difficulties are there to overcome.

Fact file

How to reach:

The easy route is from Tezpur to Tawang. Distance from Tezpur to Bhalukpung is 65 km, from Tezpur to Bomdilla 165 km and from Bomdilla to Tawang 183 km. Tezpur has an airport and a railway station. The railway station at Bhalukpung may not come to any help. Tezpur is connected to most places in Assam and North Bengal by road. From Tezpur buses ply up to Tawang. Private tour operators carry passengers in Tata Sumo vans. One has to ascertain beforehand the timing of such buses and vans to avoid disappointment. Jeeps and cars may be hired for local tours.

Where to stay:

Government Tourist Lodges at reasonable rates are available at Bomdila and Tawang. At Tawang Hotel Buddha and Paradise Lodge provide good accommodation and other facilities. Smaller hotels, lodges are available at both the places.

Inner Line Permit- obtaining of this permit from the offices of the Arunachal Pradesh Government, at different cities and towns in India is a must for a visit to their land.