Goa Festivals

Goa has scores of festivals celebrated all around the year. All these festivals do not occur on fixed dates of the calendar year, since they are based on the Hindu calendar. Despite the long period of Portuguese colonisation, the Hindu festivals have retained their unique Goan character and are celebrated with deep fervour. In Hindu mythology, Goa is called the land of the Gods and with good reasons. There are hundreds of Gods and Goddesses with differing names, tastes, rituals and traditions. Most of these have remained unchanged over the centuries while others have adapted to the changing times and circumstances.

Quite a lot of the Goan festivals are actually Feasts of the local or family deity celebrated at the temple of the God or Goddess called Devasthan.

Bonderam Festival: The Bonderam festival is observed on 4th Saturday of August, in Divar islands, 12 Km from Panaji. The festival is a memoir to the dispute and the fury of the Villagers over the Portuguese system of resolving the disputes. The villagers on the Divar Island often indulged in some kind of fight over the matter of ownership of their lands. To stop the disputes the Portuguese, put up flags at the boundaries. The villagers did not like this system. So they protested against the Portuguese by throwing stones at the flags.

On this day a carnival ambience is created. Each section of the village has a float at the parade. Melodious music could be heard throughout the village. The gaily colored floats accompanied by colorfully dressed youngsters make a pretty picture.

Christmas: Like elsewhere in the world, December 25 is celebrated with traditional joy and gaiety. It cuts across the limits of the Church to spill over into the streets for all to participate. It is a time for merry-making, exchanging gifts, cakes and puddings. The market places are all embellished with tinsel and buntings. People masquerading as Santa, stalk customers, particularly children with gifts, in the big cities. Decorated and glittering Christmas trees are all over the place. For the devout, the celebrations begin on Christmas Eve. Carols are sung and various churches organize the midnight Mass. The service on Christmas Day is attended by Christians dressed in new clothes. After the morning congregation is over, people assemble in their homes for the family get-togethers.

Diwali - Narak Chaturdasi: It is a one-day festival in Goa. Bhaubija and the New Year day are also celebrated as part of Diwali festival. In every household 5-7 panteo (lamps) are lit on the door and corners. Lord Vishnu in his eighth incarnation as Krishna destroyed the demon Narakasura, who was causing great unhappiness amongst the people of the world. Diwali or Narakachaturthi celebrates the end of this evil. In Goa, huge effigies of Narkasura, a paper made Narkasur (demon) filled with grass, wastepaper, crackers etc is taken out and to the accompaniment of taunts and insults, burnt and cremated at dawn. Later, in all the houses, bath is taken. Women prepare various types of fov (dried beaten rice dusted with sugar or jaggery and wetted lightly), raitas, usol and other snacks and serve them. After the snacks are served, all men-folk are made obeisance to by a gesture of showing a thali (plate) with lighted wicks around their heads (onvalop) which is known as 'dive darkhovnk' in Konkani. The men folk are expected to place some article or cash as a present in this plate. Later after breaking a bitter gourd, crushed by the finger of the left foot, it is applied to the tongue. Sweet snacks are taken, after making obeisance to the God and the elders.

The night of Diwali is bejewelled with millions of flickering candles and an explosion of fire works and fire crackers, so it is known as the Festival of Lights.

Feast of three kings, Epiphany: This is a local festival, held every year on January 6. The festival is celebrated in the tiny, centuries-old stone chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remedios or Our Lady of Cures. The incomparably beautiful statue of the Madonna is seen holding the Child Jesus in open arm and a small vase in the other, which has in it the panacea for all ills. It is a festival celebrated by Hindus and Christians alike. On the day of the festivity she is covered with jewellery as tokens of gratitude by Catholics and Hindus alike for favors and blessings received. Though there is a pathway for car now, up the hills, people prefer walking up the hill. The devotees are always lead by a drummer-boy with his kettledrum who, by the loud beat of his drum, announces of another favor having being granted by the Lady of Remedios. People come to the Chapel nine consecutive days before the festival to hear Mass and recite the Rosary before the Lady of the Blue Mantle before the Feast of the Novena starts.

The dramatic climax is reached on January 6, the day of the Feast of the Magi, when three little boys ranging in years from 8 to 10 are selected as kings from the three neighboring villages of Quelim, Cansaulim and Arrosim to bring their gifts of gold, myrrh, and frankincense to the Child-God. The child must be either a son or grandson from these three villages; no outsider can claim this privilege or honor. Mounted on white horses, they make their way up, outfitted in their royal garments elaborately embroidered in gold and silver, a crown studded with glittering stones on their heads, and a whole procession of relatives, friends, retinues bringing up the rear. Each procession is preceded by a brass band playing loud music and bursting of crackers all the way up. They are solemnly led to the special seats of honor reserved for them to assist at the High Mass. After the service, they are led down with the same traditional ceremony with which they were brought up the hill.

An extensive fair also springs up covering the entire hilltop. One can buy anything from a meal to copper and brassware, furniture, clothes, toys, trinkets, sweetmeats, glass bangles and spices of all sorts. A curious feature of the festival on the Mount is that after midday, one will not find a single soul anywhere near by. The reason for this is the belief that the place is haunted by Shivaji and his army who after dusk make their appearance with flares that light up the whole countryside around, which echoes to their marching feet.

Food Festival : This is a non-stop 3-day festival of color, song and music. The word 'carnival' is said to be derived from the Latin 'Carne', meaning meat, and 'Vale', which translates to 'good-bye'. Some also link the word to 'Carnislevamen' or 'the pleasures of meat', focusing on the enjoyment of meat during the festivities, before the abstinence that follows during Lent. Another hypothesis suggests that the word came from 'Carrus Navalis', the horse-drawn, boat-shaped carriage that was paraded during the Roman festival Saturnalia, in honor of Saturn. It carried men and women in fancy dresses, wearing masks, and singing obscene songs. It is possible that the present-day concept of a carnival emerged from this parade. It was introduced by the erstwhile rulers as a rowdy celebration in which flour; eggs, oranges, lemons, mud, sand-filled gloves along with dirty water, various liquids and glue were aimed at passersby. Used pots, pans, and other kitchen utensils were also thrown out of windows. Perhaps this was done to discard the old and the dirty before the Lenten fast.

Fierce battles were waged in the streets, with plaster-of-Paris eggs, wax lemons, corncobs and beans. Blows were dealt out liberally, with brooms and wooden spoons. It was also an occasion for unchecked eating. People gorged on rich food at lavish feasts, and convents distributed cakes and pastries A King of Chaos is elected, called King "Momo". He presides over the three-day festivities A number of stalls run by reputed caterers both from the best hotels as well as restaurants and even housewives offer one a rich experience of Goan cuisine. There are also stalls catering to aerated drinks, alcoholic beverages, ice-creams and snacks. Cultural programmes and fire works display are also presented, which also concludes the food celebration.

Street Plays, songs, dances, and unrehearsed farces mocking the establishment are performed before an enthusiastic, responsive audience. Floats depicting popular lullabies and nursery rhymes make a whimsical and colorful sight on the streets. In the three days of celebrations, cultural functions and competitions abound, and are judged by specially selected people. The contestants wear colorful costumes and elaborate masks. Amidst the outrageous dresses seen on the street are some made of sheer, transparent polythene. In the fun-filled ambience, people smear color on each other, instead of the flour, eggs, fruit and water that used to be used in earlier times.

Ganesh Chaturthi: The most important and almost the national festival for Goan's is the Ganesh Chaturthi known as 'Chovoth'. The Ganesh festival is one packed with fun and frolic, a time for prayer as well as pageantry. Its an occasion to clean and decorate the house, to prepare to receive the divine guest Lord Ganesh (also spelt as Ganesha), to get together with family and friends, to exchange gifts, and to rejoice the birth of the Lord with new attire, dance and music. Ganesh Chaturthi festival comes on the 4th day of Bhadarva Shukla-Paksh of Hindu calendar in (August/September). The festivities run into several days, at least two and half days, when puja of Gouri and Mahadev along with Ganapathi is performed, Gouri being drawn on paper and Mahadev on a coconut. On these days married women fast. On the Chovoth day, in the morning or evening, a clay idol of Ganapati is brought home. Before that a matov (pavilion or pandal) is prepared with bunches of betel nut, coconut, bananas and branches of mango-trees being necessary ingredients of it. The puja of Ganapati goes on until mid-day. The puja is performed with the help of the priest.

On the second day, in the evening or at night, after performing the uttara puja of the image of Ganapati, it is taken in procession and immersed into the sea, creek, river, lake or well. Before the idol is removed from its stand for immersion, it is besought for the welfare of the household and its members.

Three days of Chovoth means, days of great rejoicing for children. Girls collect different types and shapes of leaves for Gauri, Mahadev and Ganapati. There is competition in flower-making also. At least five vegetables are cooked on that day. Aartis is a special performance on the occasion of the Ganapati festival. On Panchami (fifth) day, in the evening, crowds of people move around the village to have a look at Ganapati. Women of the masses dance and sing the Fugdi before Ganapati. Some houses keep Ganapati for five, seven or nine days and rarely up to Anant Chaturdashi.

Goa Carnival: The 'Carnaval is exclusive and unique to Goa, and was introduced by the Portuguese who ruled over Goa for over five hundred years. Although, the three-day festival is primarily celebrated by Christians, it has also absorbed Hindu tradition revelry, western dance forms, and turned into a pageantry of sorts The carnival is held in February for three days and nights, when the legendary king Momo takes over the state and the streets come alive with music and color. Then begins the weeklong event, which is a time of unbridled festivity and merry-making, which has been celebrated since the 18th century.

The carnival is meant to be a feasting-drinking-merrymaking orgy just before the austere 40 days of Lent. Huge parades are organized throughout the state with bands, dances and floats out all night on the streets, and grand balls held in the evenings. The carnival concludes with the famous red-and-black dance held by the Clube National in Panajim on the final day. The word Carnival (Carnival in Portuguese) is derived from a Latin word meaning to take away meat and is an expression of the 40-day period of fasting of Lent, during which abstinence from meat is a rule.

Good Friday: Originally known as 'God's Friday', the present expression is believed to have emerged in the 10th or 11th century On Good Friday, a cross, symbolic of the one on which Jesus was crucified, is unveiled in many churches. It is believed that Jesus rose from his grave on the following Sunday, which is celebrated as Easter. The rituals for Good Friday begin on the preceding Thursday. A feast symbolizing the last supper of Christ is held on Thursday night. The end of this meal marks the beginning of the fast for Easter. Good Friday is a day of sincere reverence among Goan Catholics. It is the culmination of Lent, an important observance in the lives of devout Catholics. Lent is observed for 40 days from February to March, beginning with Ash Wednesday and ending on Good Friday followed by Easter Sunday.

Hundreds of devout Goan Catholics gather in the Panjim Church of Mary Immaculate Conception to listen to mass and participate in the Way of the Cross. During the afternoon sermon, the priests narrate the sufferings that Jesus Christ took upon himself for the sake of humanity. The mass is in Konkani, Goa's state language, attracts a crowd too large for the church itself, and people stand in the doorways and in the premises, dressed in formal clothes with somber countenance. After the mass, the crucifix, which until this time has been kept from view, is now uncovered before the crowd for veneration. A very somber ceremony, "the Way of the Cross" is a reenactment of the path Jesus took on Mount Calvary before the Crucifixion. In Panjim, which draws the largest crowd, a large wooden cross carried by an image of Jesus is taken from the church, down the steps, and through the streets of the town. It is carried by the clergymen while the crowd follows in two parallel lines in front of and in back of the statue, some weeping and all with very solemn faces.

Those not participating in the actual procession look on from the roadsides, both Hindus and Christians alike. Somber music played by a band accompanies the procession, which slowly winds its way through the main streets in Panjim before returning to the church. The mass and procession occur in every church in Goa, but the one in Panjim draws the largest crowd.

Sao Joao Festival: This festival is celebrated to commemorate Saint John, the Baptist's 'leap of joy' in his mother Elizabeth's womb, when her cousin 'Mother Mary' greeted her. It is observed all over Goa on 24th June. Newly wed sons-in-law celebrate at their mothers-in-law's house. On this occasion the mother presents the daughter a basket full of fruits like jackfruits, mangoes. A procession of village youth wearing crowns of leaves, carrying bottles of Feni advances through the village, ultimately arriving at a well or pond into which they jump along with the sons-in-law.

Shigmotsav Festival: Holi in Goa is celebrated as Shigmotsav. Shigmotsav celebrations began in 1979 all rituals and rites associated with the Shigmo are invariably performed by menfolk. There is no direct participation by women. It is celebrated on the full moon day in the month of Phalguna(March), the last month of the Hindu calendar. A festival of farewell to winter and welcoming of spring, it is celebrated with color, songs and dances to the beat of drums. Float parades depicting various scenes of mythology are also held.. Shigmo begins with Naman or collective obeisance of villagers from 9th moon day to full-moon day. During all these days, they are to 'shun' non-veg. food and all intoxicants.

From the 11th Moon day to the 15th moon day, various village groups clad in their most colorful dresses set out with festive mood with multi-colored cloths, torans, flags and column-like red spoted "Dwajas", beating drums and blowing flutes to gather at the village temples, and dance in the temple court yard singing various folk songs to the beat of the drums. On the 5th day comes the real day of rejoicing. It is called "Rang Panchami" - it is practised differently at different places. The main function of the day, however, is the profuse use of 'Gulal' or red-powder. It's a symbol of rejoicing, when people throw it on each other as a sign of full-hearted greeting.

St. Francis Day: The body of St Francis Xavier lies in a silver casket in the Church of Bom Jesus in Goa. Ceremonies to honor his death are performed on December 3, the day he was buried. St Xavier was a great Catholic missionary, who preached the Gospel of Jesus Christ to the people of Asia.

Born in Spain on April 7, 1506, he came to India with the Portuguese Viceroy of Goa in 1543, and immediately undertook the task of influencing the Goan people. He went from street to street with a hired town crier, asking people to attend his meetings and listen to his sermons. Though he did not master the local language, he took the help of Goan scholars and translated the Creed, the Lord's Prayer, The Ten commandments and Ave Maria. He baptized the inhabitants of 30 villages. Xavier commanded awesome political power. He was able to secure pensions, even for the petty princes who converted to Christianity, from the King of Portugal. To spread the message of Christ, he sailed to the Spice Islands in 1545, and then went on to Japan in 1549 for a year. His greatest success is recorded in Japan, where he converted hundreds to Christianity. After returning to India for a brief 15 months, he proceeded to China, against the wishes of the Portuguese viceroy. It was in the Sancian Island, about 10-km from the mainland of China that he died of fever on December 2, 1552.

According to legend, some Portuguese merchants found him just before he breathed his last. They performed his last rites on the following day, and buried him in a box partly filled with unslaked lime. A few months later, a Jesuit brother disinterred the body and discovered, to his surprise, that it had not decomposed at all. He cut a finger from the body and was astonished to see blood ooze out. When this was reported to the Vatican, the title of Saint was conferred upon him. He interred in a cemetery in Malacca for about two years before it was brought to its final resting place in Goa. Until then, even though the body had not been anointed, it was found to be only slightly affected by death. Before the mortal remains of the saint were placed in a silver casket in the Church of Bom Jesus, one hand was cut off from the body. Pieces of the hand were distributed to various parts of the world, under orders of the Pope. Every ten years until 1994, on the anniversary of his death, St Xavier's body would be brought out and kept in a glass case, with the feet exposed, for all to see and worship. For the exposition, people from all over India would flock to the church for a glimpse of the saint. The saint is said to have miraculous powers of healing. So many who wanted relief took wax models of the parts of their body that was deceased or in pain.

The last exposition was held in 1994. Since the condition of the body had deteriorated visibly, it was decided by the church that the body would not be displayed anymore. There are many stalls selling trinkets and souvenirs in the fair that is held on the occasion. A wide variety of food and drinks are also available. The pilgrimage turns into a picnic for quite a few families, as they shop in the little lanes decorated with streamers.

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